Tag Archives: seongnam

I made it back to Moran Market in Seongnam a few weeks ago (other parts, 1,2,). I had a student recently tell me that the market is slated to be relocated because the price of real-estate has sky-rocketed in the area. The local gov wants to clean up its image and bring it into the times by relocating it into a modern facility. Goodbye pojamacha wonderland. I really love the atmosphere of this place. Visit if you have the chance, while you still can. Enjoy some makkolli, folk music, and timeworn culinary delights. Here are a few frames from the M6. Tri-X.

moran blog

moran blog

moran blog

moran blog

moran blog

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모란 시장 revisited

After a exploring the nooks of Moran market earlier in the month I wandered back there this Sunday with a friend. Last time I was a little overwhelmed by the dog meat and my hangover. This time my skin was a little thicker and I explored thoroughly. We peroused, ducked in and out, watched a shaman dance, wandered past boshi-tang pots and had beer in a back alley hof. I am compelled to really make this place my project as my Korean friend told me the place will unfortunately disappear in the next generation. Last time we visited we swung by a department store to pick up something and were suddenly floored by the contrast of the white shiny lights and prim cotton gloves. The shopping culture in Korea is a paradox worth exploring further. Here are some fresh images from yesterday.

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Moran Market, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do

Last weekend I spent a day wandering around the infamous Moran Market in Seongnam. Exploring the outdoor/indoor labyrinths that are traditional Korean markets is a major pastime of mine; especially with a camera in tow. Documenting the last gasps of these traditional marketplaces when more and more Koreans are preferring the sterile, air-conditioned comforts of large department stores and international supermarkets, has become a quaint obsession.

Moran Market in particular struck me as a place out of time. Held on every day ending in 4 or 9, the market draws vendors from the countryside and swells with an older, crookeder, and more pagan  sense of Korea (no offense meant by this). Besides culinary offerings  I’ve never seen in any other marketplace, Moran seemed to focus more on herbal potions, unconventional foodstuffs, with a generally odder assortment of characters than seen elsewhere. An adult student mentioned that Moran attracts the last rural peasants of Korea who come to sell their wares. If most of those who could (through education, jobs, family) fled the coutryside decades ago, the peasants left behind seem to be of a different stripe. The place had the feel of a backwoods flea market, or a convention of carnies. A very strange atmosphere indeed.

MORAN MARKET

Oddly enough at the gate of the market were several evangelicals preaching the word (a few Buddhists also). They seemed unable to cross into the market threshold (atleast in our imagination). At the other gate we saw some old men shouting religous debate with a cross-waver, snarling in raised tones “where is Jesus, show him to me!!”

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MORAN MARKET

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MORAN MARKET

MORAN MARKET

MORAN MARKET

MORAN MARKET

MORAN MARKET

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MORAN MARKET

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Filed under South Korea, street photography